Buenos Aires, Argentina

 

Buenos Aires, “good airs”, is the capital and largest city of Argentina. It is often referred to as the Paris of South America. The city is located on the western shore of the estuary of the Rio de la Plata, on the southeastern coast of South America. The city has also been compared to Barcelona and Madrid as it echoes being built on mass immigration.

Buenos Aires is the land of diverse cultures, being made up of large populations of Italians, Hispanics, Jews, Germans, Asians and many more. There is no lack of things to see and do. From its array of melting-pot architecture (a mixture of cosmopolitan designs that reflect old European, art-nouveau, renaissance and modern), to its museums, palaces, cathedrals, markets and incredible food.  It’s a city of romance boasting dance halls, lounges and their signature dance, the Argentine Tango. It’s a shopper’s paradise with a vibrant fashion and art scene.

Fundación Proa
El Caminito

There was so much to see and do in Buenos Aires, such that a return trip is in the future. During our much too short a visit, some of the highlights of our trip were visits to The Fundación Proa, a private art center in a district called La Boca. Founded in 1996, it focused on the exhibition of the artistic movements of the twentieth century. The  center is located in a working class neighborhood and close to El Caminito, a colorful street museum which we also visited. El Caminito is a museum that is located on a street and alley way. Juan de Dios Filiberto’s musical composition of Caminito (1926) is what gave this area its cultural significance. The museum includes colorful painted houses representative of the immigrant homes. Walking the streets of El Caminito, you will see tango dancers that is one of the best free shows the city has to offer.

Eva Perone’s Monument

While this might seem very macabre, one of the most fascinating sites in Buenos Aires is the Recoleta Cemetery, a place where I could have spent all day. The architecture of the monuments were varied and nothing short of magnificent. Buried in the cemetery are notables such as Eva Peron, presidents of Argentina, Nobel Prize winners, the granddaughter of Napoleon and the founder of the Argentine Navy. BBC hailed it as one of the world’s best cemeteries and CNN listed it as one of the 10 most beautiful cemeteries in the world.

Near the Recoleta is The Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, a fine arts museum considered one of the best in the world. It hails works from famous South American artists as well as the classics such as Degas, Monet, Van Gogh, Rembrandt, Rodin, Manet, Chagall and Picasso, to name a few.

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
Teatro Colón
Teatro Colón Interior

When it comes to the live arts, Buenos Aires doesn’t disappoint. Make sure to take in a performance in the Teatro Colón, one of the most beautiful and outstanding opera houses in the world. National Geographic’s listed Teatro Colón as one of the ten best opera houses in the world and acoustically to be one of the five best concert venues in the world.  Founded in the mid 1800s, the theater hosts symphonies by famous orchestras, operas and ballets in a building modeled after French and Italian architecture. The current building was opened in 1908. Most of the accolades of this opera house were mostly due to its interior. Seating capacity is around 2500 seats, but when you include standing room, the theater can hold as many as 4,000 attendees.  The auditorium is horseshoe-shaped as are the opera houses in Venice, Milan and Naples.

Casa Rosada

Considered one of the most important places in the city, the Casa Rosada (pink house) is where the president of Argentina works. Located on the famous Plaza de Mayo, it is also the building from which Juan and Eva Peron gave famous speeches on its balconies. The building also houses a museum containing objects relating to former Argentine presidents. The area of Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosada is an epicenter for demonstrations such as those made against Britain and their ownership and occupation of the Falkland Islands. A weekly march is held by mothers and grandmothers of those who disappeared by the government during the Dirty War of the 70s and 80s. The group is known as Las Madres de Plaza de Mayo.

Jardín Botánico

The Palermo and Jardín Botánico is one of the most popular recreational spots for residents of Buenos Aires, know as Porteños. This is where some of the largest and most popular parks are located. The area was once a part of the estate of the dictator, Juan Manuel de Rosas. The Palermo makes up 20 acres of outdoor beauty.  Enjoy an array of excellent ethnic restaurants, and stylish fashion boutiques. Most notably to see in Palermo is the Jardín Botánico, a botanical garden made up of over 5,000 flower species from around the world. Taking in the flora and fauna of the gardens as well as the lakes , bridges and sculptures was quite the experience

Not to be upstaged by any of the above, a visit to the local markets and an imbibing of Buenos Aires cuisine was first and foremost on my mind. Buenos Aires Market Villa del Parque is a mecca of stands fashioned in the style of London and New York, offering products of meats, cheeses, vegetables, spices, oils, nuts, plants, and fruits as well as cafes and restaurants. The market includes an auditorium were cooking classes, workshops and talks are held. The two main areas of the market are the gazebos where you can purchase food products and the food court with food trucks and stands owned by reputable chefs and restaurants, where you can savor some of the traditional dishes of Buenos Aires.

Asado

Argentine Asado is probably the most popular and indigenous dish of the city. It is a mélange of meat and offal’s grilled to perfection. This could include some or all of the following: sweetbreads, kidney, chitterlings, ribs, skirt steak, chivito (goat), sirloin and tenderloin. The tradition is to serve the offal first  and then the other meats. Other popular dishes of the area are empanadas, Choripán (a sausage sandwich), and a variety of pastries and sweets. I have to add here that the best french fries I have ever had in my life were in Buenos Aires. The most popular condiment in the country is chimichurri, a blend of parsley, oregano, garlic and olive oil. I couldn’t get enough of this condiment, especially when drizzled over the meats of the Asado. But don’t just use it for beef, it is good on fish and chicken as well.